Looking to light a room, but are trying to maintain a nice, clean look uncluttered by dangling light fixtures? If so, you need to look into recessed lighting. Recessed lighting, as the same suggests, is simply lighting that is recessed into your ceiling, providing a very non-obtrusive lighting source.
Just because these lights seem simple doesn't mean you don't have some choices to make when choosing recessed lighting. For one, you can get lights in multiple bulb types. The most popular are fluorescent, halogen, and incandescent. Incandescent lights are nice and affordable, halogen lights are very bright, and fluorescent lights provide excellent energy savings over the other types. There are even LED lights for those looking to trim energy usage even more.
These lights also come in different designs. You might think that since a recessed light is basically a can with a bulb stuck in a ceiling, there wouldn't be much variation, but it turns out that there is. You can choose different sizes, designs of the interior, and designs of the external flange. These allow you to match the design of the lights to the look of your room.
Installing recessed lighting doesn't have to be very complicated, though it will depend greatly on your access to the space above the ceiling and your wiring situation. If you have access to the veiling from above, installing the lighting is just a matter of running the wires, mounting the light fixtures to a stud, and cutting the hole for the flange. If you don't have this kind of access, calling in a professional might be a good idea.
As you can see, there is a lot to think about when it comes to choosing and installing recessed lighting. However, it is all worth it if you desire the clean, simple look the only recessed lighting can give you. Check into it today.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Aileen_McConnor
One of the most important principles to understand when designing a recessed lighting layout is beam angle. In recessed cans, the light is produced in the shape of a cone. You picture the light starting as a point at the light fixture and forming a circle on the floor. The beam angle is the angle of this light out of the bulb. For example a 60-degree beam angle will produce a circle of light about 9 feet across on the floor if the fixture is 8 feet off the floor. See a
Diagram.
That is just one part of the formula. That circle of light we now have on the floor is not all the same intensity. About five and a half feet of that circle is good intense light while the remainder is spill over and diminishes as it gets further from the center. This is very important to understand. With this information, you can overlap the spill over light so that you end up with a nice even light pattern over the entire area you are trying to illuminate. Something to remember when you are planning this out is something called the work plane. This is an area about 30" above the floor. It is an area where most tasks take place.
The work plane is important because as the distance between the light fixture and the surface to be lit decreases, so does that circle we spoke about. In a living room or den, designing the lighting plan so that we have even light on the floor is fine. In a kitchen though, this work plane becomes far more critical. This is why in a kitchen, keeping recessed lights about 4 feet apart, creates a pattern that is even on the work plane with the intense portion of the circle.
There are some other things besides the bulb and the can that shape the light pattern. The finish trim on recessed lights can vary the pattern of light. A wall washer creates a half cone that can be directed at a wall or fireplace. A pin spot trim can direct the light in a very narrow beam to light a small object.
This should give you a basic idea of what is involved when you undertake a recessed lighting layout. If you would like to learn more or have questions, please visit us at the links below.
(c) Copyright 2005 Paul Forte. All rights reserved.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Paul_Forte
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Wednesday, August 5, 2009
Stair Runners Made Easy
There are basically two methods of installing carpet on stairs. One is the waterfall method where one piece of carpet covers each riser and tread. The other is the cap and band installation. In this case the cap is a piece of carpet installed over the treads and the band is the piece that will cover the risers. In this article I will show you how to install carpet using the waterfall method. These instructions are for basic stairs and not for spiral stairs which would require additional procedures.
Tools Needed:
Tack strips
Staples or upholstery nails
Measuring Tape
Knee Pads
Knee kicker (check your rental store)
Stair Tool (check your rental store)
Utility knife
Hammer
Safety glasses
Obviously you'll need to remove all the old carpet. Get rid of the tack strips and don't try to use the old padding. Make sure any nails and staples are removed and sweep down the area to be carpeted.
Before you get started you're going to have to figure out how much carpet you'll need. To calculate the width simply measure across the tread. If your stairs are open on one or both ends make sure to measure under the nosing to where it meets the riser and add it to the total width. Figure the total length of your flight of stairs by measuring the tread and riser. Assuming your going to use carpet pad make sure to add at least 3 inches per stair. If your steps have nosing add one foot to the total flight measurement.
Okay, let's get started. Apply the tack strip to the stair crotch location. Next you'll need to tighten the carpet by tucking in the crotch. You can do this by using a knee kicker. It is a tool used to install carpet in small areas and stairs. It consists of a piece of metal tubing with a pin plate attached to it. On the other end it has a padded cushion where you can position your knee to apply pressure to the carpet. You should be able to find one at your local rental store. Simply place the padded end several inches above your knee and add pressure.
This is where you will use the knee kicker:
To attach to the tack strip you need to use the knee kicker to stretch the carpet straight from the center of the tread and hook it to the tack strip located at the crotch. Once the carpet has been hooked to the tack strip you need to firmly attach it by sliding your carpet tool back and forth to compress the pins. Using your utility knife or carpet knife trim as needed. A carpet knife is better as it has two sides and is sharper than a utility knife. Repeat this process on each side of the tread. Before going to the next tread make sure the carpet is smoothed out on the riser and then staple to the stair lip. I would recommend you staple about every 2 inches. Don't forget to also staple along the edge of the riser.
Make sure to step back and take a look at your work before going on to the next tread. Is the carpet smooth? Did you kick it in evenly? It is also a good time to give your knees and back a rest. If everything looks good the continue onto the next tread. If not you'll have to pull the carpet off and install it again. Repeat this process until you are finished.
Once finished stand back and admire your work and give yourself a pat on the back. You now have a beautiful looking staircase.
Jerry Holt is a writer for the website Do It Yourself Today. Please go to http://www.diytoday.net for do it yourself home improvement and carpet tips and advice.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jerry_Holt
Tools Needed:
Tack strips
Staples or upholstery nails
Measuring Tape
Knee Pads
Knee kicker (check your rental store)
Stair Tool (check your rental store)
Utility knife
Hammer
Safety glasses
Obviously you'll need to remove all the old carpet. Get rid of the tack strips and don't try to use the old padding. Make sure any nails and staples are removed and sweep down the area to be carpeted.
Before you get started you're going to have to figure out how much carpet you'll need. To calculate the width simply measure across the tread. If your stairs are open on one or both ends make sure to measure under the nosing to where it meets the riser and add it to the total width. Figure the total length of your flight of stairs by measuring the tread and riser. Assuming your going to use carpet pad make sure to add at least 3 inches per stair. If your steps have nosing add one foot to the total flight measurement.
Okay, let's get started. Apply the tack strip to the stair crotch location. Next you'll need to tighten the carpet by tucking in the crotch. You can do this by using a knee kicker. It is a tool used to install carpet in small areas and stairs. It consists of a piece of metal tubing with a pin plate attached to it. On the other end it has a padded cushion where you can position your knee to apply pressure to the carpet. You should be able to find one at your local rental store. Simply place the padded end several inches above your knee and add pressure.
This is where you will use the knee kicker:
To attach to the tack strip you need to use the knee kicker to stretch the carpet straight from the center of the tread and hook it to the tack strip located at the crotch. Once the carpet has been hooked to the tack strip you need to firmly attach it by sliding your carpet tool back and forth to compress the pins. Using your utility knife or carpet knife trim as needed. A carpet knife is better as it has two sides and is sharper than a utility knife. Repeat this process on each side of the tread. Before going to the next tread make sure the carpet is smoothed out on the riser and then staple to the stair lip. I would recommend you staple about every 2 inches. Don't forget to also staple along the edge of the riser.
Make sure to step back and take a look at your work before going on to the next tread. Is the carpet smooth? Did you kick it in evenly? It is also a good time to give your knees and back a rest. If everything looks good the continue onto the next tread. If not you'll have to pull the carpet off and install it again. Repeat this process until you are finished.
Once finished stand back and admire your work and give yourself a pat on the back. You now have a beautiful looking staircase.
Jerry Holt is a writer for the website Do It Yourself Today. Please go to http://www.diytoday.net for do it yourself home improvement and carpet tips and advice.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jerry_Holt
Monday, August 3, 2009
Drywall Repairs.. Step by Step Videos
The beauty of modern walls such as drywalls (also known as wallboard, gypsum board, or Sheetrock) is that even if you get holes in them, fixing or patching these walls is easy. Believe me, it's no rocket science and you just need some hardware materials and a great deal of patience to pull the job off.
Whether you're repairing a small or medium sized hole, the techniques used are similar. Small and medium sized holes can be ½-inch to 6 inches in diameter. The smaller the hole, the easier it can be fixed, and the less time it takes.
For Small Holes
Small holes up to ½ inch across can be patched easily using a drywall compound. Other than cleaning the surrounding wall area, you don't need a lot of preparation to fix holes this small.
1. Use a hammer or to tap the wall around the hole to create a slight depression. Alternately, you can also use the rounded edge of the screw to tap it more accurately.
2. Fill in the hole with the drywall compound. For really small holes, a single coating is needed.
3. Once it dries off, lightly sand off the area.
For Medium Sized Holes
Repairing holes up to 6 inches in diameter will take more steps, although the process is still relatively easy. The trick here really is to get the gap covered and make the repair as "invisible" as possible.
1. Buy the needed materials from a home improvement store. For this job, you will need a peel-and-stick drywall patch, some drywall compound, utility knife, sanding paper, and a taping or putty knife. The patch that you can buy is usually made of a stiff metal backer covered with an adhesive mesh.
2. Prepare the hole area by cutting off any loose paper or loose pieces of gypsum with a utility knife.
3. Peel off the backing paper covering the adhesive, and position the patch over the hole. Use a taping knife to stick the patch firmly over the hole.
4. Apply a generous amount of drywall compound into the patch, making sure that the compound presses the patch into place.
5. Give the first coat about 24 hours to dry off, then apply another coating of the compound.
6. When the second coating has dried off as well, sand the area carefully. Using a fine-grit paper, sand the patch smooth, "feathering" out the rough edges so that the compound blends into the existing drywall.
Dry sanding can get really dusty so you may have to use vacuum cleaners that have special sanding screen attachments to clean of all the dust. Alternately, you can also opt to use wet sanding but you have to avoid rubbing off the compound too much, else you'd need to do the job all over again.
7. Lastly, you need to prime and paint the patch to keep moisture away and make the repair job even more invisible.
Drywall fixing is also an art more than simply repair -- get the task done as smoothly as possible so that you deceive the eye into thinking that no repair has been done at all. So what are you waiting for? Get on with the job and do your magic!
If you are looking for a handyman in Eagan, MN be sure to visit the Eagan handyman directory for a list of contractors that can help you with your home repair needs.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Travis_Van_Slooten
Whether you're repairing a small or medium sized hole, the techniques used are similar. Small and medium sized holes can be ½-inch to 6 inches in diameter. The smaller the hole, the easier it can be fixed, and the less time it takes.
For Small Holes
Small holes up to ½ inch across can be patched easily using a drywall compound. Other than cleaning the surrounding wall area, you don't need a lot of preparation to fix holes this small.
1. Use a hammer or to tap the wall around the hole to create a slight depression. Alternately, you can also use the rounded edge of the screw to tap it more accurately.
2. Fill in the hole with the drywall compound. For really small holes, a single coating is needed.
3. Once it dries off, lightly sand off the area.
For Medium Sized Holes
Repairing holes up to 6 inches in diameter will take more steps, although the process is still relatively easy. The trick here really is to get the gap covered and make the repair as "invisible" as possible.
1. Buy the needed materials from a home improvement store. For this job, you will need a peel-and-stick drywall patch, some drywall compound, utility knife, sanding paper, and a taping or putty knife. The patch that you can buy is usually made of a stiff metal backer covered with an adhesive mesh.
2. Prepare the hole area by cutting off any loose paper or loose pieces of gypsum with a utility knife.
3. Peel off the backing paper covering the adhesive, and position the patch over the hole. Use a taping knife to stick the patch firmly over the hole.
4. Apply a generous amount of drywall compound into the patch, making sure that the compound presses the patch into place.
5. Give the first coat about 24 hours to dry off, then apply another coating of the compound.
6. When the second coating has dried off as well, sand the area carefully. Using a fine-grit paper, sand the patch smooth, "feathering" out the rough edges so that the compound blends into the existing drywall.
Dry sanding can get really dusty so you may have to use vacuum cleaners that have special sanding screen attachments to clean of all the dust. Alternately, you can also opt to use wet sanding but you have to avoid rubbing off the compound too much, else you'd need to do the job all over again.
7. Lastly, you need to prime and paint the patch to keep moisture away and make the repair job even more invisible.
Drywall fixing is also an art more than simply repair -- get the task done as smoothly as possible so that you deceive the eye into thinking that no repair has been done at all. So what are you waiting for? Get on with the job and do your magic!
If you are looking for a handyman in Eagan, MN be sure to visit the Eagan handyman directory for a list of contractors that can help you with your home repair needs.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Travis_Van_Slooten
How To Upholstery
Life is built around routine. You wake up around the same time. You go to work around the same time. You come home around the same time. You eat at the same time. You go to sleep at the same time. Boring. The monotony begins to wear. The rut of life needs to be filled. But how? What can you do to change the tedium without losing your job or breaking your leg? Two words: Upholstery Fabric. Huh? That's right; upholstery fabric can alter your entire world view. Don't believe me. That's fine. Keep on reading, I'll change your mind.
Significant others make or break lives. Well, if yours has recently broken your life consider reupholstery. Take all that furniture that reminds of you of him or her and rip it to shreds. Leave nothing but the bare bones of its frame. Expose its nakedness to the world. And then, like a deranged plastic surgeon, recreate it in any style you see fit. Combine patterns, merge colors, it's your furniture do whatever you want to it. When you're finished, the memories will fade as you sit comfortably on your brand new, memory expunged, couch or whatever you have sitting around that house of yours.
Do you have a favorite chair or a part of the couch that you gravitate toward? Duh, yes. Well, no doubt you've spilled a soda or ice cream on it. You've flipped the cushion so many times that either side resembles a bar bathroom at closing time. Follow these instructions: go online and pick out new upholstery. Order it. Re-upholster said chair or couch. Your comfort is saved and all it took was a little gumption.
Of course I saved the best idea for last. Take a few weeks and re-upholster every piece of furniture in your house. Afterward, rearrange it all. Then shut off all the lights, lock the windows, draw the shades and leave for the weekend. Go visit a National Park, head to a part of the city you never go to, have an adventure. When you return, the site of your newly decorated place will send you into shock. After recovering at the hospital and returning home, you'll enjoy the new set-up. It'll feel like a new place all together.
Upholstery fabric changes things. Fix that rut in your life by sprucing up anything in your house. The result will fill you with joy for years to come and if doesn't, simply re-upholster it again.
Decided to grab some upholstery fabric for a weekend project? Head over to DIY Upholster Supply for fabrics, foam and furniture legs for your next upholstery repair.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Cruse
Significant others make or break lives. Well, if yours has recently broken your life consider reupholstery. Take all that furniture that reminds of you of him or her and rip it to shreds. Leave nothing but the bare bones of its frame. Expose its nakedness to the world. And then, like a deranged plastic surgeon, recreate it in any style you see fit. Combine patterns, merge colors, it's your furniture do whatever you want to it. When you're finished, the memories will fade as you sit comfortably on your brand new, memory expunged, couch or whatever you have sitting around that house of yours.
Do you have a favorite chair or a part of the couch that you gravitate toward? Duh, yes. Well, no doubt you've spilled a soda or ice cream on it. You've flipped the cushion so many times that either side resembles a bar bathroom at closing time. Follow these instructions: go online and pick out new upholstery. Order it. Re-upholster said chair or couch. Your comfort is saved and all it took was a little gumption.
Of course I saved the best idea for last. Take a few weeks and re-upholster every piece of furniture in your house. Afterward, rearrange it all. Then shut off all the lights, lock the windows, draw the shades and leave for the weekend. Go visit a National Park, head to a part of the city you never go to, have an adventure. When you return, the site of your newly decorated place will send you into shock. After recovering at the hospital and returning home, you'll enjoy the new set-up. It'll feel like a new place all together.
Upholstery fabric changes things. Fix that rut in your life by sprucing up anything in your house. The result will fill you with joy for years to come and if doesn't, simply re-upholster it again.
Decided to grab some upholstery fabric for a weekend project? Head over to DIY Upholster Supply for fabrics, foam and furniture legs for your next upholstery repair.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Daniel_Cruse
Friday, July 31, 2009
Replacing a Toilet
Four of the most common symptoms when troubleshooting and diagnosing your toilet for maintenance and repair.
Symptom #1 There is water on the floor around the base of my toilet or water leaks from under the base of my toilet when I flush. Usually this happens when the wax ring looses it's seal. This is caused by lack of use (wax ring dries up)or, more commonly the toilet moves causing a break in the seal. The toilet moves usually because the flange on the sewer pipe breaks and the bolt no longer holds the toilet in place or the porcelain cracks where the bolt holds the tank to the floor. Repairs can be made by the homeowner.
Symptom #2: Water is leaking from between my tank and bowl. The tank and bowl are held together by bolts (usually two) and there are rubber seals on the bolts and between the tank and bowl. Local water conditions and bowl cleaners that are put into the toilet tank can cause these items to deteriorate. Unless there is a crack in the tank, replacing these items will repair this problem.
Symptom #3: The toilet tank is filling with water even when I'm not using it. There is a part in your toilet tank called the flapper. It is attached to the flush valve. It is usually a soft rubber which over time can deteriorate due to age, water conditions or adding bowl cleaners to the tank. Replacing the flapper will repair this problem. Most flappers are universal.
Symptom #4: The water will not shut off even after the tank is full. Repair or replace the fill valve. This is the valve that lets water into your tank from the water supply line. There are several types. The two most common fill valves are the horizontal floating ball that is attached to an arm which in turn opens or closes the fill valve , and the vertical floating ball which rides up and down the fill valve shaft closing or opening the fill valve. In many cases, replacing the seals in the fill valve will repair this problem. However, most people opt to replace the fill valve totally.
Now that you know what is wrong with your toilet, Go ahead! Make that repair. You can do it. If all else fails here's how to replace your broken toilet. Click on the link below to receive free step by step repair instructions. myhomemaintenancetips.com
Symptom #1 There is water on the floor around the base of my toilet or water leaks from under the base of my toilet when I flush. Usually this happens when the wax ring looses it's seal. This is caused by lack of use (wax ring dries up)or, more commonly the toilet moves causing a break in the seal. The toilet moves usually because the flange on the sewer pipe breaks and the bolt no longer holds the toilet in place or the porcelain cracks where the bolt holds the tank to the floor. Repairs can be made by the homeowner.
Symptom #2: Water is leaking from between my tank and bowl. The tank and bowl are held together by bolts (usually two) and there are rubber seals on the bolts and between the tank and bowl. Local water conditions and bowl cleaners that are put into the toilet tank can cause these items to deteriorate. Unless there is a crack in the tank, replacing these items will repair this problem.
Symptom #3: The toilet tank is filling with water even when I'm not using it. There is a part in your toilet tank called the flapper. It is attached to the flush valve. It is usually a soft rubber which over time can deteriorate due to age, water conditions or adding bowl cleaners to the tank. Replacing the flapper will repair this problem. Most flappers are universal.
Symptom #4: The water will not shut off even after the tank is full. Repair or replace the fill valve. This is the valve that lets water into your tank from the water supply line. There are several types. The two most common fill valves are the horizontal floating ball that is attached to an arm which in turn opens or closes the fill valve , and the vertical floating ball which rides up and down the fill valve shaft closing or opening the fill valve. In many cases, replacing the seals in the fill valve will repair this problem. However, most people opt to replace the fill valve totally.
Now that you know what is wrong with your toilet, Go ahead! Make that repair. You can do it. If all else fails here's how to replace your broken toilet. Click on the link below to receive free step by step repair instructions. myhomemaintenancetips.com
What you should know about hardwood flooring
A floor made of wood is truly elegant in a home and we must take additional care to prevent the floors get damaged. Cleaning wood floors are easy and simple. Plus there are lots of commercially available cleaning products specifically made for wood.
Preventive Maintenance
1. Regular sweeping of your floors, use a soft bristled broom.
2. Regular vacuuming can get dirt and sand. They can scratch your floors,
3. Don't wipe wood floors with a wet mop or wet rug.
4. Water is the worst enemy of wood floors. If you see spilled water, wipe it immediately with dry mops and dry rugs. Don't let the water stand in.
5. Use doormats on every door's entrances. Clean them always.
6. Ask your wood floor manufacturer on what special treatments should you use on your floor because there are different wood floor finishes.
7. Sunlight can damage your wooden floors. It can discolor your floor and age it quickly. Protect your floor by installing curtains, drapes, or blinds on every window in your house.
8. Don't drag your furniture because it can scratch and damage your wood floors. You can either put furniture pads beneath it or lift it.
9. Heavy shoes and high heels can dent your floors.
A Flooring Store can give you several options to choose from. You could find tile, wood, linoleum, and or carpet here. There could also be beautiful Oriental rugs and simple throw rugs to select. A Flooring Store is a one stop place to find all your flooring needs along with a knowledgeable sales representative to help make your selection.
Hardwood Floor Installation can be a simple procedure if you go about it right in the first place. Depending on what Hardwood product you choose from. Installation can be glued, nailed, stapled or in some cases there are products out there with adhesive strips to the back of the wood. After you have chosen the product you will be installing speak to the representative that has sold you the goods.
Find out which products will be needed for the installation there may be a required underlayment for the floor these are things that you need to know. You may decide not to take on the installation yourself and hire a licensed contractor but again you will still need to know what you are doing so that while the contractor is explaining to you his process and price you are able to verify that these were the necessary expenses to complete the job.
Getting back to the installation project that you have decided to take on. Once you have the product put it in the room you are going to install the wood needs to acclimate itself, which takes anywhere from one to three days. Make sure you purchase all your supplies for installation and last but most important find your focal point. This means you need to chose a focal point in the area of the hardwood floor installation and then square it out. Examples of focal points, fireplace or a center island and also allow for expansion on all the permanent walls or fixtures, give it about a quarter inch along the base boards etc.
The installation time is up to you so carefully read all the manufacturer's pamphlets so that you are able to install the hardwood flooring per their specifications and don't cancel out the warranty. If you don't use the required products to install the hardwood flooring this could negate the warranty so you should pay careful attention to those facts.Hardwood floor installation tips are found almost anywhere including your local hardware stores, libraries, and of course the internet.
When installing solid hardwood floors you should be careful to avoid installing them directly onto concrete slabs or below ground level because of moisture problems that may result. The problem with moisture is that it leaves unsightly gaps in the hardwood once it dries, typically during the winter months when heating tends to draw the moisture out of homes. During summer months when humidity and moisture are high you should notice that the wood once again expands, sometimes so much so that the wood planks may buckle or cup. Because of these issues you should also take great care to leave plenty of room for seasonal expansion.
If this is unavoidable, you should install hardwood floors that are fixed in place with nails. Consistently following steps to ensure you get the longest life out of the floors and sanding them back and re-polishing them will also be essential, whether the floors are maple, bamboo, ash, white or red oak.
Hardwood floors are usually divided into one of three categories being plank flooring, strip flooring and parquet flooring. Parquet style hardwood floors are also known as parquetry, and this is when the smaller pieces of timber are arranged in a geometrical fashion. The timber used can be all the same or different to create a more colorful effect. Hardwood floors that are laid in the strip flooring style are between 5/16 and ¾ of an inch thick and 1 ½ to 2 ¼ inches wide. Strip flooring is common in the bamboo hardwood floors that are popular today. The third style of flooring is the plank, and each board is anywhere from three to eight inches in width. This is a more traditional, heritage style flooring, but is also still a popular choice today.
Another popular yet pricey option when shopping around for hardwood floors is the hand scraped style. They can create a very trendy touch to your home or have a more classic feel if you have a shabby chic, rustic style décor. They are an art form unto themselves, and for this reason, do not come cheap. However, if you can afford the extra cost, you will be rewarded with originality and class.
Each brand of hardwood flooring should come with its own care and washing suggestions. It is important to follow these for your specific hardwood flooring, regardless of what other people do. It is a great idea to vacuum the floor regularly to prevent a buildup of grime in the spaces between the boards, and try to use mats and rugs wherever possible.
It's also a good idea to have welcome mats at doors and throw rugs in high traffic areas in order to maximize the life of your hardwood floors. Another great way to protect your hardwood floors is by using furniture coasters on all legs of your furniture. Spills should also be taken care of immediately in order to protect your hardwood floors and keep them looking beautiful for years to come.
With the recent developments in the field of hardwood floor installation, you need not require professional help from carpenters for installing hardwood floors. The task of installing hardwood floors can be easily performed by anyone now. This has been possible with the availability of pre-finished flooring, where the wood is factory-finished and saves the labor of sanding and finishing it manually.
Other than the ever-popular red oak, there are many varieties of hardwood which are available in several colors and textures to add a touch of class to your home. Selection of the type of material you want to use in installing hardwood floors can become easier if you do a search on the Internet or make a preliminary visit to a hardware shop.
Pre-finished flooring can be bought online or from a merchant you trust. After you get the wood home, you should stack the wood in the room it will be installed in for a few day to let it adjust to the normal humidity level. This is important to do because moisture makes wood expand. Leave a half inch between the floor and the wall when installing your flooring. This space could be covered with a baseboard or molding strip later.
For the actual installation of the floors, follow the instructions given by the supplier. These are usually the things you have to do step-by-step to get a custom finish on the floor. The wood comes already micro-beveled to allow for expansion of wood during the summer.
If your flooring is very old and looks it, you can also refinish it to make it look like new. Before the job starts, remove furniture, rugs, drapes and all articles on the floor. Refinished flooring takes about three days to be ready for use again, during which time keep the doors and windows of the room closed to prevent airborne dust entering inside. After the job is finished, it is advisable to allow one more day before placing the furniture and other items back on the floor.
Still easier to install are laminate floors which also require very little maintenance. The flooring is resistant to scratches and stains and is especially suitable for withstanding heavy traffic or if you have pets or kids. The laminate floors can be laid easily as the flooring comes with a tongue and groove interlocking system.
With all of the different flooring options out there it may take some time to find the one that works for you. Fortunately, installing new wood floors is easier than ever with the specialized products on the market today. When buying your new flooring, make sure that the enclosed directions are clear and straightforward. If in doubt, ask a lot of questions before you start your installation project!
A large number of do-it-yourselfers have questions regarding how to install wood floor and refinish hardwood floors which can easily be answered with a fast internet search.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_W_Smith
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brijesh_Purohit
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Tarnowski
Preventive Maintenance
1. Regular sweeping of your floors, use a soft bristled broom.
2. Regular vacuuming can get dirt and sand. They can scratch your floors,
3. Don't wipe wood floors with a wet mop or wet rug.
4. Water is the worst enemy of wood floors. If you see spilled water, wipe it immediately with dry mops and dry rugs. Don't let the water stand in.
5. Use doormats on every door's entrances. Clean them always.
6. Ask your wood floor manufacturer on what special treatments should you use on your floor because there are different wood floor finishes.
7. Sunlight can damage your wooden floors. It can discolor your floor and age it quickly. Protect your floor by installing curtains, drapes, or blinds on every window in your house.
8. Don't drag your furniture because it can scratch and damage your wood floors. You can either put furniture pads beneath it or lift it.
9. Heavy shoes and high heels can dent your floors.
A Flooring Store can give you several options to choose from. You could find tile, wood, linoleum, and or carpet here. There could also be beautiful Oriental rugs and simple throw rugs to select. A Flooring Store is a one stop place to find all your flooring needs along with a knowledgeable sales representative to help make your selection.
Hardwood Floor Installation can be a simple procedure if you go about it right in the first place. Depending on what Hardwood product you choose from. Installation can be glued, nailed, stapled or in some cases there are products out there with adhesive strips to the back of the wood. After you have chosen the product you will be installing speak to the representative that has sold you the goods.
Find out which products will be needed for the installation there may be a required underlayment for the floor these are things that you need to know. You may decide not to take on the installation yourself and hire a licensed contractor but again you will still need to know what you are doing so that while the contractor is explaining to you his process and price you are able to verify that these were the necessary expenses to complete the job.
Getting back to the installation project that you have decided to take on. Once you have the product put it in the room you are going to install the wood needs to acclimate itself, which takes anywhere from one to three days. Make sure you purchase all your supplies for installation and last but most important find your focal point. This means you need to chose a focal point in the area of the hardwood floor installation and then square it out. Examples of focal points, fireplace or a center island and also allow for expansion on all the permanent walls or fixtures, give it about a quarter inch along the base boards etc.
The installation time is up to you so carefully read all the manufacturer's pamphlets so that you are able to install the hardwood flooring per their specifications and don't cancel out the warranty. If you don't use the required products to install the hardwood flooring this could negate the warranty so you should pay careful attention to those facts.Hardwood floor installation tips are found almost anywhere including your local hardware stores, libraries, and of course the internet.
When installing solid hardwood floors you should be careful to avoid installing them directly onto concrete slabs or below ground level because of moisture problems that may result. The problem with moisture is that it leaves unsightly gaps in the hardwood once it dries, typically during the winter months when heating tends to draw the moisture out of homes. During summer months when humidity and moisture are high you should notice that the wood once again expands, sometimes so much so that the wood planks may buckle or cup. Because of these issues you should also take great care to leave plenty of room for seasonal expansion.
If this is unavoidable, you should install hardwood floors that are fixed in place with nails. Consistently following steps to ensure you get the longest life out of the floors and sanding them back and re-polishing them will also be essential, whether the floors are maple, bamboo, ash, white or red oak.
Hardwood floors are usually divided into one of three categories being plank flooring, strip flooring and parquet flooring. Parquet style hardwood floors are also known as parquetry, and this is when the smaller pieces of timber are arranged in a geometrical fashion. The timber used can be all the same or different to create a more colorful effect. Hardwood floors that are laid in the strip flooring style are between 5/16 and ¾ of an inch thick and 1 ½ to 2 ¼ inches wide. Strip flooring is common in the bamboo hardwood floors that are popular today. The third style of flooring is the plank, and each board is anywhere from three to eight inches in width. This is a more traditional, heritage style flooring, but is also still a popular choice today.
Another popular yet pricey option when shopping around for hardwood floors is the hand scraped style. They can create a very trendy touch to your home or have a more classic feel if you have a shabby chic, rustic style décor. They are an art form unto themselves, and for this reason, do not come cheap. However, if you can afford the extra cost, you will be rewarded with originality and class.
Each brand of hardwood flooring should come with its own care and washing suggestions. It is important to follow these for your specific hardwood flooring, regardless of what other people do. It is a great idea to vacuum the floor regularly to prevent a buildup of grime in the spaces between the boards, and try to use mats and rugs wherever possible.
It's also a good idea to have welcome mats at doors and throw rugs in high traffic areas in order to maximize the life of your hardwood floors. Another great way to protect your hardwood floors is by using furniture coasters on all legs of your furniture. Spills should also be taken care of immediately in order to protect your hardwood floors and keep them looking beautiful for years to come.
With the recent developments in the field of hardwood floor installation, you need not require professional help from carpenters for installing hardwood floors. The task of installing hardwood floors can be easily performed by anyone now. This has been possible with the availability of pre-finished flooring, where the wood is factory-finished and saves the labor of sanding and finishing it manually.
Other than the ever-popular red oak, there are many varieties of hardwood which are available in several colors and textures to add a touch of class to your home. Selection of the type of material you want to use in installing hardwood floors can become easier if you do a search on the Internet or make a preliminary visit to a hardware shop.
Pre-finished flooring can be bought online or from a merchant you trust. After you get the wood home, you should stack the wood in the room it will be installed in for a few day to let it adjust to the normal humidity level. This is important to do because moisture makes wood expand. Leave a half inch between the floor and the wall when installing your flooring. This space could be covered with a baseboard or molding strip later.
For the actual installation of the floors, follow the instructions given by the supplier. These are usually the things you have to do step-by-step to get a custom finish on the floor. The wood comes already micro-beveled to allow for expansion of wood during the summer.
If your flooring is very old and looks it, you can also refinish it to make it look like new. Before the job starts, remove furniture, rugs, drapes and all articles on the floor. Refinished flooring takes about three days to be ready for use again, during which time keep the doors and windows of the room closed to prevent airborne dust entering inside. After the job is finished, it is advisable to allow one more day before placing the furniture and other items back on the floor.
Still easier to install are laminate floors which also require very little maintenance. The flooring is resistant to scratches and stains and is especially suitable for withstanding heavy traffic or if you have pets or kids. The laminate floors can be laid easily as the flooring comes with a tongue and groove interlocking system.
With all of the different flooring options out there it may take some time to find the one that works for you. Fortunately, installing new wood floors is easier than ever with the specialized products on the market today. When buying your new flooring, make sure that the enclosed directions are clear and straightforward. If in doubt, ask a lot of questions before you start your installation project!
A large number of do-it-yourselfers have questions regarding how to install wood floor and refinish hardwood floors which can easily be answered with a fast internet search.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christopher_W_Smith
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Brijesh_Purohit
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Carol_Tarnowski
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Composting Toilets : An Explanation
Recent generations have probably never given much thought to a simple device called the composting toilet, and most, no doubt, would prefer not to linger long on the subject. But composting toilets have long been used throughout human history. They have a much longer history than the common plumbing and sewage systems that we have all become accustomed to using in our modern civilization.
Sometimes known as biological toilets and waterless toilets, composting toilet systems are useful when there is an urgent necessity to control the composting of toilet paper, food wastes and excrement. Composting toilet is different from the septic system because a composting toilet system is depended on conditions of unsaturated level such as the materials cannot be immersed completely in water. When operating to its full capacity, composting toilet is competent to easily break down the waste into somewhere about 10 to 30 percent of its actual volume.
Contrary to common opinions on the matter, or perhaps based on unpleasant experiences, composting toilets can be very hygienic, very clean and do not smell when operated correctly. They also help to save enormous amounts of water and in many areas of the world this is extremely important. In fact, in a global community where it is becoming more important to conserve water, these toilets could benefit everyone if used more widely.
For instance, consider a typical American family that uses a flush toilet. It has been estimated that a family of four can flush about 100,000 liters of water each year, just to deal with their human feces.
And, this water goes into the sewage system which has the potential to contaminate ground water sources. But, compostable toilets actually protect both surface and ground water supplies from this kind of contamination.
Humus is the reslting end-product. Known for being a stable soil-like material, humus is required to be either buried or it has to be properly removed by a licensed seepage hauler who is familiar with the state as well as the prevailing local regulations in the U.S. but in several other countries, humus can be used as an effective soil conditioner on edible crops.
When we discuss the primary objective underlying the composting toilet system, the answer is simple: to destroy or immobilize any and every organism that is capable of causing pathogens or any kind of human disease. Composting is a savior of sorts because it ensures that the waste products don't contaminate the immediate or distant environment or harm the human inhabitants in any way.
The system should naturally be consistent with proper as well as good sanitation so that it minimizes effectively any possibility of human contact with the kind of unprocessed excrement that is being treated, Minimizing odor and producing a dry end product that doesn't pose any kind of exposure to disease vectors like flies is a matter of importance as well.
The secondary objective, as we all know, is to transform the nutrients that are present in human excrement into forms that are stable because these are then fully oxidized and can therefore, be used effectively as a kind of soil conditioner for plants as well as trees.
Here are some of the main components of a composting toilet:
-a composting reactor that gets connected to one or more of the dry or the micro-flush toilets;
-a screened exhaust system so that odors, water vapors, carbon dioxide, and so on can be minimized;
-some type of ventilation so that oxygen is provided to the aerobic organisms that are present in the composter;
-a proper way to drain and manage whatever turns out to be leachate or excess liquid;
-process controls, like mixers and
-an access door that ensures the removal of the final end-product.
Most people in Western Society would be surprised to find out that there are a variety of composting toilets on the mainstream market. I am pretty sure most people have never even heard of composting toilets; however that may soon change. Composting toilets have the potential to save North Americans up to 100,000 gallons of toilet flush water per year and if you live in an area where you have to pay for your water by the gallon or cubic foot, you'll be saving a lot of money by using composting toilets.
The bottom line is that composting toilets are simply devices that facilitate the composting proces of human feces and this practice can be said to be as old as the hills. It is nothing more and nothing less than Mother Nature's way of recycling human waste components, just as it does with the waste of other living beings on the planet, and reintegrating it with the soil as part of the cycle of life.
With these tips, you have now understood what composting toilet is all about.
Diy Instructions can be found here.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-composting-toilets-work
Jay Bria
Sometimes known as biological toilets and waterless toilets, composting toilet systems are useful when there is an urgent necessity to control the composting of toilet paper, food wastes and excrement. Composting toilet is different from the septic system because a composting toilet system is depended on conditions of unsaturated level such as the materials cannot be immersed completely in water. When operating to its full capacity, composting toilet is competent to easily break down the waste into somewhere about 10 to 30 percent of its actual volume.
Contrary to common opinions on the matter, or perhaps based on unpleasant experiences, composting toilets can be very hygienic, very clean and do not smell when operated correctly. They also help to save enormous amounts of water and in many areas of the world this is extremely important. In fact, in a global community where it is becoming more important to conserve water, these toilets could benefit everyone if used more widely.
For instance, consider a typical American family that uses a flush toilet. It has been estimated that a family of four can flush about 100,000 liters of water each year, just to deal with their human feces.
And, this water goes into the sewage system which has the potential to contaminate ground water sources. But, compostable toilets actually protect both surface and ground water supplies from this kind of contamination.
Humus is the reslting end-product. Known for being a stable soil-like material, humus is required to be either buried or it has to be properly removed by a licensed seepage hauler who is familiar with the state as well as the prevailing local regulations in the U.S. but in several other countries, humus can be used as an effective soil conditioner on edible crops.
When we discuss the primary objective underlying the composting toilet system, the answer is simple: to destroy or immobilize any and every organism that is capable of causing pathogens or any kind of human disease. Composting is a savior of sorts because it ensures that the waste products don't contaminate the immediate or distant environment or harm the human inhabitants in any way.
The system should naturally be consistent with proper as well as good sanitation so that it minimizes effectively any possibility of human contact with the kind of unprocessed excrement that is being treated, Minimizing odor and producing a dry end product that doesn't pose any kind of exposure to disease vectors like flies is a matter of importance as well.
The secondary objective, as we all know, is to transform the nutrients that are present in human excrement into forms that are stable because these are then fully oxidized and can therefore, be used effectively as a kind of soil conditioner for plants as well as trees.
Here are some of the main components of a composting toilet:
-a composting reactor that gets connected to one or more of the dry or the micro-flush toilets;
-a screened exhaust system so that odors, water vapors, carbon dioxide, and so on can be minimized;
-some type of ventilation so that oxygen is provided to the aerobic organisms that are present in the composter;
-a proper way to drain and manage whatever turns out to be leachate or excess liquid;
-process controls, like mixers and
-an access door that ensures the removal of the final end-product.
Most people in Western Society would be surprised to find out that there are a variety of composting toilets on the mainstream market. I am pretty sure most people have never even heard of composting toilets; however that may soon change. Composting toilets have the potential to save North Americans up to 100,000 gallons of toilet flush water per year and if you live in an area where you have to pay for your water by the gallon or cubic foot, you'll be saving a lot of money by using composting toilets.
The bottom line is that composting toilets are simply devices that facilitate the composting proces of human feces and this practice can be said to be as old as the hills. It is nothing more and nothing less than Mother Nature's way of recycling human waste components, just as it does with the waste of other living beings on the planet, and reintegrating it with the soil as part of the cycle of life.
With these tips, you have now understood what composting toilet is all about.
Diy Instructions can be found here.
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-composting-toilets-work
Jay Bria
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Solar Diy Instructions
Wanna convert to solar but don't have the money.? Here's a link to an instructional ebook with detailed instructions on building your own.
http://reviewhomemadeenergy.info/
http://reviewhomemadeenergy.info/
Troubleshooting an Outlet
Hiring a professional electrician can be very expensive and is often the reason why people try doing their own basic electric wiring themselves.
I have seen the good, the bad and the ugly results of these efforts and I have come to the conclusion that basic electrical wiring is not something anyone should do without proper guidance, tools and confidence.
It is so important that before attempting any of these basic electrical wiring projects that people are aware of how dangerous electricity is and how important safety is for you and for your family and family home.
90 percent of the time I recommend hiring a licensed electrician over doing your basic electrical wiring yourself. Not doing this will usually end up costing even more money than before and increase the risk of bringing your family into danger without even knowing your doing it.
But doing your own basic electric wiring really isn’t that hard to do if you “educate” yourself on the topic.
Licensed electricians had to learn the stuff themselves too. So as a ‘do it yourself person’ this isn’t different. There is no escape possible.
You will see that the more you read about it the easier it will become and the more confidence you will get.
Just to give you an idea, here are 3 questions I recently got from people just like you who tried doing their own electric wiring:
Question 1: I installed a grounding probe in your aquarium and every time anyone in the house turns on or off the lights, the fish jump. What's going on?
A couple of suggestions:
1. (easiest) Pull out that grounding probe and return it from whence you purchased it.
2. Check the wiring on your outlet. You may actually have 'Neutral' instead of 'Ground'.
3. Check the wiring throughout the rest of the house. There are some people out there that insist on doing their own home repairs, yet don't understand basic electrical wiring.
Outlets are easy to check by getting a $7.95 outlet tester from the hardware store. Wired-in appliances, lights, heaters, etc. are tougher.
4. Check all your electrical fixtures to make sure they aren't leaking some voltage to Ground.
Question 2: What is the NEC? Where can I get a copy?
The NEC is a model electrical code devised and published by the National Fire Protection Association, an insurance industry group. It's revised every three years.
The 1993 version has been released. You can buy a copy at a decent bookstore, or by calling them directly at 800-344-3555.
The code exists in several versions. There's the full text, which is fairly incomprehensible. There's an abridged edition, which has only the sections likely to apply to most houses.
And there's the NEC Handbook, which contains the ``authorized commentary'' on the code, as well as the full text. That's the recommended version. Unfortunately, there's no handbook for the abridged edition. And the full handbook is expensive -- US$65 plus shipping and handling.
Question 3: Can I do my own wiring? Extra pointers?
In most places, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring. In some, they're not. Check with your local electrical inspector. Most places won't permit you to do wiring on other's homes for money without a license. Nor are you permitted to do wiring in "commercial" buildings.
Multiple dwellings (eg: duplexes)are usually considered "semi-commercial" or "commercial". However, many jurisdictions will permit you to work on semi-commercial wiring if you're supervised by a licensed electrician - if you can find one willing to supervise.
If you do your own wiring, an important point:
Do it NEAT and WELL! What you really want to aim for is a better job than an electrician will do. After all, it's your own home, and it's you or your family that might get killed if you make a mistake.
An electrician has time pressures, has the skills and knows the tricks of the trade to do a fast, safe job. In this FAQ we've consciously given a few recommendations that are in excess of code, because we feel that it's reasonable, and will impress the inspector.
The inspector will know that you're an amateur. You have to earn his trust. The best way of doing this is to spend your time doing as neat a job as possible. Don't cut corners. Exceed specifications. Otherwise, the inspector may get extremely picky and fault you on the slightest transgressions.
Don't try to hide anything from the inspector.
Use the proper tools. Ie: don't use a bread knife to strip wires, or twist wires with your fingers. The inspector won't like it, and the results won't be that safe. And it takes longer. And you're more likely to stick a hunk of 12ga wire through your hand that way.
Don't handle house wire when it's very cold (eg: below -10C or 16F). Thermoplastic house wire, particularly older types become very brittle.
As you can see, getting the right answers to your questions can make the work a lot easier.
You save time by doing it “the right way” from the first time and you save money because you won’t need to hire an electrician to either do the entire job or to fix your screw-ups.
In any case, no matter what you, be very careful when working on electricity! If needed cut down the entire power of your house just to be sure.
Keep It Safe,
--------------------------------------------------------
Nico De Baere is a licensed electrician with over 10 years of experience with home and industrial electric wiring. He is the author of the ebook Basic Electric Wiring which gives answers to 77 of the most ask questions on basic electric wiring. Visit his site now at http://www.basicelectricwiring.com
I have seen the good, the bad and the ugly results of these efforts and I have come to the conclusion that basic electrical wiring is not something anyone should do without proper guidance, tools and confidence.
It is so important that before attempting any of these basic electrical wiring projects that people are aware of how dangerous electricity is and how important safety is for you and for your family and family home.
90 percent of the time I recommend hiring a licensed electrician over doing your basic electrical wiring yourself. Not doing this will usually end up costing even more money than before and increase the risk of bringing your family into danger without even knowing your doing it.
But doing your own basic electric wiring really isn’t that hard to do if you “educate” yourself on the topic.
Licensed electricians had to learn the stuff themselves too. So as a ‘do it yourself person’ this isn’t different. There is no escape possible.
You will see that the more you read about it the easier it will become and the more confidence you will get.
Just to give you an idea, here are 3 questions I recently got from people just like you who tried doing their own electric wiring:
Question 1: I installed a grounding probe in your aquarium and every time anyone in the house turns on or off the lights, the fish jump. What's going on?
A couple of suggestions:
1. (easiest) Pull out that grounding probe and return it from whence you purchased it.
2. Check the wiring on your outlet. You may actually have 'Neutral' instead of 'Ground'.
3. Check the wiring throughout the rest of the house. There are some people out there that insist on doing their own home repairs, yet don't understand basic electrical wiring.
Outlets are easy to check by getting a $7.95 outlet tester from the hardware store. Wired-in appliances, lights, heaters, etc. are tougher.
4. Check all your electrical fixtures to make sure they aren't leaking some voltage to Ground.
Question 2: What is the NEC? Where can I get a copy?
The NEC is a model electrical code devised and published by the National Fire Protection Association, an insurance industry group. It's revised every three years.
The 1993 version has been released. You can buy a copy at a decent bookstore, or by calling them directly at 800-344-3555.
The code exists in several versions. There's the full text, which is fairly incomprehensible. There's an abridged edition, which has only the sections likely to apply to most houses.
And there's the NEC Handbook, which contains the ``authorized commentary'' on the code, as well as the full text. That's the recommended version. Unfortunately, there's no handbook for the abridged edition. And the full handbook is expensive -- US$65 plus shipping and handling.
Question 3: Can I do my own wiring? Extra pointers?
In most places, homeowners are allowed to do their own wiring. In some, they're not. Check with your local electrical inspector. Most places won't permit you to do wiring on other's homes for money without a license. Nor are you permitted to do wiring in "commercial" buildings.
Multiple dwellings (eg: duplexes)are usually considered "semi-commercial" or "commercial". However, many jurisdictions will permit you to work on semi-commercial wiring if you're supervised by a licensed electrician - if you can find one willing to supervise.
If you do your own wiring, an important point:
Do it NEAT and WELL! What you really want to aim for is a better job than an electrician will do. After all, it's your own home, and it's you or your family that might get killed if you make a mistake.
An electrician has time pressures, has the skills and knows the tricks of the trade to do a fast, safe job. In this FAQ we've consciously given a few recommendations that are in excess of code, because we feel that it's reasonable, and will impress the inspector.
The inspector will know that you're an amateur. You have to earn his trust. The best way of doing this is to spend your time doing as neat a job as possible. Don't cut corners. Exceed specifications. Otherwise, the inspector may get extremely picky and fault you on the slightest transgressions.
Don't try to hide anything from the inspector.
Use the proper tools. Ie: don't use a bread knife to strip wires, or twist wires with your fingers. The inspector won't like it, and the results won't be that safe. And it takes longer. And you're more likely to stick a hunk of 12ga wire through your hand that way.
Don't handle house wire when it's very cold (eg: below -10C or 16F). Thermoplastic house wire, particularly older types become very brittle.
As you can see, getting the right answers to your questions can make the work a lot easier.
You save time by doing it “the right way” from the first time and you save money because you won’t need to hire an electrician to either do the entire job or to fix your screw-ups.
In any case, no matter what you, be very careful when working on electricity! If needed cut down the entire power of your house just to be sure.
Keep It Safe,
--------------------------------------------------------
Nico De Baere is a licensed electrician with over 10 years of experience with home and industrial electric wiring. He is the author of the ebook Basic Electric Wiring which gives answers to 77 of the most ask questions on basic electric wiring. Visit his site now at http://www.basicelectricwiring.com
Top Fifty Remodeling Shortcuts
That's right fifty. Try some of these alternatives during your next remodel job and save a bundle.Copy and paste this into your browser.
http://www.calfinder.com/blog/general-remodel/top-50-home-remodeling-short-cuts/
http://www.calfinder.com/blog/general-remodel/top-50-home-remodeling-short-cuts/
Plumbing tips to keep your costs down
There are a lot of plumbers which advertise themselves as emergency 24 hour plumbers. And for good reason. They know that they can charge a lot more to customers who have a serious situation. If you look through your local business directory you are going to find a list of plumbers. A lot of them are going to be available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. As such, an emergency plumber is really easy to find. It's in your best interest to call as many plumbers as possible so that you have some bargaining power if you suspect that one is giving you a particularly high quote.
Aside from checking out your local business directory you can also take a look at your local Craigslist ads. Although you want to keep the cost down when hiring a plumber, you also want to make sure that you are not just hiring anybody. You want a plumber that can offer some sort of insurance on the work they do and one that is licensed.
You also have to decide if you need an emergency plumber in the first place. Although it is tempting to call someone so that they can repair it, many, if not most, plumbing repairs you can fix yourself. Just search for the specific problem that you have (faucet leak for example) in your favorite search engine.
Although some types of repairs can get complicated really quickly, these are usually the ones, which will cost the most if you hire a plumber. If you do it yourself, not only will your be saving money, but you'll have the satisfaction of knowing that you did all the work by yourself.
Aside from checking out your local business directory you can also take a look at your local Craigslist ads. Although you want to keep the cost down when hiring a plumber, you also want to make sure that you are not just hiring anybody. You want a plumber that can offer some sort of insurance on the work they do and one that is licensed.
You also have to decide if you need an emergency plumber in the first place. Although it is tempting to call someone so that they can repair it, many, if not most, plumbing repairs you can fix yourself. Just search for the specific problem that you have (faucet leak for example) in your favorite search engine.
Although some types of repairs can get complicated really quickly, these are usually the ones, which will cost the most if you hire a plumber. If you do it yourself, not only will your be saving money, but you'll have the satisfaction of knowing that you did all the work by yourself.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
A DIY Solar Energy Project
Here's a great project you can do at home. Very simple and economical.
http://memoryperformance.net
http://memoryperformance.net
Green Power
Here are some interesting videos on creating your own green energy. Make the utilities pay you.
Garbage disposals. Do it yourself.
Garbage disposals are great kitchen appliances that simplify household duties. Yet we must return the favor by cleaning the garbage disposals regularly. Trapped in the garbage disposal, food fibers that are not cleared out will cause emergency plumbing catastrophes from blocked drains, clogged blades and burnt out motors.
The easy way to prevent garbage disposal plumbing emergencies is to prevent them from the start. Preventive maintenance is easy and simple to conduct, and are attested by emergency plumbers as our first line of defense against costly plumbing fiascoes.
Follow the Do's and Don'ts for long lasting garbage disposals free of inconvenient plumbing emergencies:
DO's
- Keep your garbage disposal clean. Pour 1.5 cups of baking soda down the kitchen drain, and follow with a cup of white vinegar. Allow the mixture to sit for several minutes and then carefully pour a medium size pot of water down the drain. Alternatively mix in a clean container a gallon of water with one tablespoon of liquid chlorine bleach. Pour the solution down the drain. Flush the drain with cold water.
- Run regularly the garbage disposal to avoid rusting and corrosion. In addition to rust and corrosion prevention, frequent use prevents accumulation of clogs.
- Ground food waste with a strong flow of cold water that will solidify and grease and oils, so that they can be sliced off before reaching the trap.
- Maintain a fresh scented drain and kitchen by grinding ice cubes with citrus fruit's rinds. The ice will also clean the blades.
DON'Ts
- Don't feed the garbage disposal with non biodegradable food or non-food particles (plastic, metal, paper) that can smash the blades.
- Don't pour grease, oils and fats down the garbage disposal. Grease build up will hinder the grinding action of the disposal and form stubborn clogs in the drain.
- Don't pour hot water while the disposal is grinding. This will liquidate grease that will only accumulate and block the drain.
- Don't grind fibrous material including corn husks, celery stalks, onion skins, and artichokes. Fibrous material can wrap on blades, jam and burn out motor.
- Don't turn off water until grinding is finished. Leave water running 15 seconds after turning off the motor to flush away trapped food particles.
- The grinding of too much potato peels will release starch that will turn into a thick paste and stick together the blades. Pasta and rice will swell up when when creating a monster of a clog.
- Don't use commercial drain cleaners because they can hurt blades and pipes.
Easy, simple and common sense preventive maintenance will prevent complicated drain emergency plumbing complications, and keep your disposal working for a long time.
Thursday, July 23, 2009
Low Flow Faucet Aerator
Here's another good idea to save around the home. Low flow aerators. Installing these in your faucets can reduce your monthly water bill immensely. Here's a couple instructional videos on kitchen and bath fixtures.
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
Install Your Own Ceiling Fan
This is a great way to save some dough. Instead of having an electrician hang your fan do it yourself. Keep that hundred dollars to yourself.
Ceiling fans will help lower your cooling costs in the summer and keep it warmer in the winter
Save some money and continue to collect more Green in your Pocket.
Ceiling fans will help lower your cooling costs in the summer and keep it warmer in the winter
Save some money and continue to collect more Green in your Pocket.
Monday, July 20, 2009
Light Switches and Receptacles
Installing your own light switches and dimmers can be a cost effective way to bring drama to any room. This is a very simple process. First may I remind you that working with live electricity can be dangerous, so make sure all power is turned off to any area that is being worked on.
Here's a video on installing switches in a pre existing box.
There are a few extra steps in running a new box but nothing overly complicated.
Here's a couple other videos.
Here's a video on installing switches in a pre existing box.
There are a few extra steps in running a new box but nothing overly complicated.
Here's a couple other videos.
Sunday, July 19, 2009
A few extra cooling tips
It's been proven that turning your ceiling fans on and off during the day uses more energy than letting them run all day long. Keeping them clean cuts down on allergens and betters the overall performance of the fan. This also cuts down on your a/c usage during the day.
Friday, July 17, 2009
A/C tips
It's hot again and we're all relying on our a/c units to provide some relief. Here's a few tips on keepin your home cool in the summer heat without costing yourself a fortune.
1. Make sure your filter is clean.
Keep in mind that in the summer months your ac could run quite a bit longer than normal due to the extreme heat here in AZ. Use the cheaper filters to create more air flow to the unit. Thus helping it work less hard. This can help prevent your coil from freezing up through the monsoons when the moisture level is higher.
2. Set your thermostat at 78 F or higher. Each degree setting below 78 F will increase energy consumption by approximately 8%. Be careful, however, that if you're A/C is oversized the diminished run-time from raising the thermostat setting may result in too-high indoor humidity
in some locations.
3. Inspect and clean both the indoor and outdoor coils. The indoor coil in your air conditioner acts as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. The outdoor coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and cleaned if necessary.
1. Make sure your filter is clean.
Keep in mind that in the summer months your ac could run quite a bit longer than normal due to the extreme heat here in AZ. Use the cheaper filters to create more air flow to the unit. Thus helping it work less hard. This can help prevent your coil from freezing up through the monsoons when the moisture level is higher.
2. Set your thermostat at 78 F or higher. Each degree setting below 78 F will increase energy consumption by approximately 8%. Be careful, however, that if you're A/C is oversized the diminished run-time from raising the thermostat setting may result in too-high indoor humidity
in some locations.
3. Inspect and clean both the indoor and outdoor coils. The indoor coil in your air conditioner acts as a magnet for dust because it is constantly wetted during the cooling season. Dirt build-up on the indoor coil is the single most common cause of poor efficiency. The outdoor coil must also be checked periodically for dirt build-up and cleaned if necessary.
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